Ulmarra
Ulmarra Hotel, Ulmarra - Credit: Ulmarra Hotel
Small in population but big in personality, Ulmarra delivers country swagger and quirky cool in equal measure. On the banks of the Clarence River in Northern NSW, the town is filled with heritage buildings, many of which now house stores and galleries. And just like its famous neighbour Grafton, in spring Ulmarra’s jacarandas bloom with their stunning purple blossoms.
This part of the Clarence Valley is home to a vibrant creative community, which can easily be seen at the Coldstream Gallery. Pieces on display here range from paintings to sculptures and jewellery, with most works available for purchase. Nearby, Fibre Delights is a craft cooperative of 15 artisans showcasing their sewing, quilting and handicraft skills.
Fine art prints are on display at Ulmarra Collective, alongside fragrant French soaps and handmade homewares imported from Morocco, Mexico and Turkey. Or order bespoke furniture that double as works of art, made from Australian native timber at The Wood Shop.
Few Aussie country towns lack an antiques store; Ulmarra is no exception. Contrary’s on Clarence is chock-a-block with vintage furniture and covetable objects. One of the town’s highlights is Ulmarra Books and Collectables, a little store packed with secondhand books.
Ulmarra Hotel is a glorious Federation building, which has been serving as a meeting place for locals since it opened in 1906. Order a drink and pub-style fare or woodfired pizza, and enjoy in the beer garden overlooking the river.
Nearby, Ulmarra Food Co serves standout hot drinks, as well as daily baked pies and pastries and piles of regional produce, from jams to seasonal fruit and veggies. The Little Local Cafe is, as its name suggests, rather petite – just a couple of outdoor tables offering a front-row seat to the river.
A handful of accommodation options are available in town, including the historic Ulmarra Hotel, B&Bs and self-contained apartments. The Bank House is a charming homestead that is now a guesthouse, sleeping eight or you can stay at the Coldstream Gallery, which has its own apartment attached to the building.
Ulmarra is a 6.5-hour drive north from Sydney and 3.5 hours south from Brisbane. It’s just 15 minutes from the regional centre of Grafton, which you can reach by car, train and bus. You can also fly into Ballina Airport, which is one hour and 20 minutes north.
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