72 Hours in the Clarence Valley

The compact Clarence Valley boasts some of the most captivating foodie and nature experiences in NSW, yet this coastal region remains largely unknown to travellers. That means you can enjoy buzzy restaurants, meet acclaimed producers and explore epic national parks without the crowds you might find elsewhere.

For a food-and-drink-focused holiday that’s full of surprises, look no further. Here’s how to make the most of your visit.

WHERE TO STAY

The region’s largest town, Grafton, is a convenient base. Grab a room at the centrally-located Fitzroy Motor Inn for creature comforts including air-conditioning and free wifi. The beach town of Yamba is also popular (it’s sometimes called ‘the new Byron’) and there are plenty of holiday parks, motels, houses and apartments to choose from.

DAY ONE:

Grafton & surrounds 

Morning

Located on the banks of the Clarence River, stately Grafton is fast becoming a hub for foodies, with an ever-growing array of cute cafes and impressive restaurants lining its historic streets. Fuel up for the day ahead with breakfast at the Clarence Kitchen Collective, a health-focused community hub comprising a cafe, bulk-food store, yoga studio and more. If you’re lucky, you might arrive just as a tray of the Collective’s signature granola is being pulled from the oven.

Use the rest of the morning to explore Grafton on foot, perhaps following the self-guided Grafton Heritage Trail, which traverses many of the town’s loveliest stretches. Along the way, stop at the Clarence River Historical Society to learn about the region’s history and at Grafton Regional Gallery to see work by Ken Done and other significant Australian artists.

Afternoon

No regional trip is complete without a bakery lunch. In Grafton, the place to go is Hank’s Kitchen, which was established in 1979 and has locations on both the north and south sides of the river. Hank’s chunky steak and pepper pie is legendary.

But don’t linger too long: you have an action-packed afternoon ahead. Just outside Grafton is the entrance to Nymboida National Park, one of NSW’s true hidden gems. Here, you can canoe rapids on the Nymboida and Mann rivers, 4WD through the wilderness or choose from a variety of bush walks for all abilities. You’ll certainly be hungry by dinner time.

Evening

It’s a scenic 15min drive from Grafton along Big River Way to the village of Ulmarra, where you’ll find one of the region’s most delightful pubs: the Ulmarra Hotel. Built in 1906, this riverfront venue is steeped in history – but the real reason to visit is the food at Cafe Clarence. Savour sophisticated dishes such as confit chicken leg with maple mash, and steamed greens and roasted capsicum and hazelnut salsa, or order a simple and satisfying fish meal to round out your first day.

DAY TWO: 

Yamba & surrounds

Morning

There’s no shortage of delectable dining options to be found in Yamba, which has all the charm of Byron Bay but with far fewer visitors. When you arrive in town, head straight to Beachwood Cafe for superlative breakfast fare, much of it with a Mediterranean or Middle Eastern twist (and don’t miss the organic mandarin juice).

Next, it’s off to striking Angourie Beach, which savvy Australian surfers consider a mecca. The conditions here are too rough for casual swimming, but if you surf, you won’t want to miss catching a few waves with the locals. Otherwise, stroll to the tip of Angourie’s grassy headland and take in the sweeping coastal views to the south.

Afternoon

Set aside an hour for lunch at Sandbar, operated by a third-generation fishing family and famed for its unbelievably fresh seafood. Tasty tapas options include panko-crumbed whiting and Balmain bugs with burnt butter.

After lunch, choose a designated driver and head for Clarence Distillery in the centre of town. The distillery is best known for its gin but also produces vodka, using Clarence Valley ingredients wherever possible and incorporating native botanicals such as lemon myrtle. Tastings are on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday afternoons.

For those who prefer beer, Sanctus Brewing Company on the outskirts of town is a worthy alternative. Visit for a brewery tour or to sample one (or more) of the dozen varieties crafted on site. The grassy beer garden is a top spot for all ages.

Evening

You’re guaranteed a memorable meal at Karrikin, which combines the ambition of a big-city fine diner with the warmth and personality of a small-town bistro. Working with seasonal produce, foraged ingredients and – of course – local seafood, the team crafts dishes that stimulate and satisfy. Native ingredients such as macadamia nuts, finger lime and wattle seed feature prominently. It’s worth taking your time and savouring every morsel.

DAY THREE 

Iluka & Wooli 

Morning

Don’t leave the Yamba area without popping into its sister town, Iluka, on the north side of the Clarence River. A great spot for breakfast is The Peach Farm, which operates an organic cafe all year round and offers peach-and-nectarine picking from September to November. There’s a posse of adorable farm animals, too.

Nearby, the Iluka Rainforest Walk leads you deep into a patch of ancient Gondwana rainforest, which has all but disappeared from mainland Australia. The gentle path leads to Iluka Bluff Lookout, offering panoramic views and, in winter, whale watching.

Afternoon

This part of NSW is full of idyllic secret spots, and one of the most captivating is the seaside hamlet of Wooli. When you arrive, follow the locals’ lead and nab a table for lunch at Emilio’s Bistro and Pizzeria in the Wooli Hotel Motel. Veteran chef Emilio Liquete makes a great pizza, but his impossibly fresh seafood dishes are arguably even more impressive. The Wooli area’s renowned oysters are also on the menu.

Afterwards, take your pick of Wooli’s outdoor activities: perhaps fishing on the Wooli Wooli River, strolling the 6.6km Wooli Beach or even renting a kayak from Stellar Water Sports. Cap off your food-filled adventure with a frothy Aussie milkshake from Wooli Wooli Cafe, a long-running business that’s authentic and endearing, much like the Clarence Valley itself. Bon appétit!