A wine-tasting weekend: a gastronomic 72-hour itinerary in Mudgee
The Zin House, Eurunderee near Mudgee
Destination NSW
While the Mudgee region has been growing grapes for almost 150 years, it’s recently become the complete package for travellers of all stripes. Blessed with crisp mountain air, ancient rock art, modern galleries and, of course, vineyards, the town now boasts some truly luxurious accommodation and fine-dining options to pair with the wineries.
Set just far enough from Sydney to feel like a million miles from the daily grind but close enough for a long weekend, the rejuvenated Mudgee region is perfect for hedonists looking for an indulgent escape.
Pipeclay Pumphouse is located at:
Start your weekend with an excellent coffee and sophisticated brunch at Millbrie Mudgee Market Street Cafe before heading to The Drip, a stunning moss and fern covered sandstone edifice that drips crystalline water. Just 35 minutes north of Mudgee, The Drip and surrounding 2.8km walking track is a great place to get the legs moving while immersed in nature.
If it’s a warm day, leap into the Goulburn River to cool off. There’s also a significant Aboriginal rock art site, Hands on Rock, just a few kilometres north that is well worth visiting.
After an energetic expedition, a late lunch beckons. Head back towards Mudgee town, taking a turn into Pipeclay Pumphouse in the charmingly named area of Budgee Budgee. Part of the Robert Stein winery portfolio, the rustic, low-slung restaurant perched on a dam among the reeds exudes a soothing bucolic charm.
The comforting surrounds belie the fine fare coming from the Pipeclay kitchen. The seasonal, changing degustation menu could include truffle tuna tartare, house-made charcuterie or dark chocolate panna cotta. And treat yourself to a glass of Stein’s revered museum-release aged riesling or reserve shiraz. For a more relaxed lunch, be welcomed with authentic country hospitality at The Barn at Blue Wren Farm, with a menu that focuses on simple, seasonal and delicious food, and a gorgeous garden courtyard to soak up the sun.
If you’re lucky enough to have a designated driver, slip into Pieter Van Gent Winery and spend an atmospheric hour among enormous ex-Penfolds casks from the 1850s. Make your way via Vinifera for a tasting of their organically grown Spanish varietals, including the brooding graciano and inky tempranillo. And stop by Yeates Wines to try their range of premium, small-batch wines, grown organically with minimal intervention. Pop a few in the bag to enjoy back at home.
In the evening, book into a very special night of Aboriginal culture and traditional flavours at the Warrakirri Dining Experience by Indigiearth. Over a five-course degustation, you’ll be immersed in the beauty of Australian native foods and botanicals, alongside authentic cultural entertainment, music and storytelling, pioneered by the owner, Ngemba Weilwan woman Sharon Winsor.
Roth's Wine Bar and Cellar is one of NSW’s oldest wine bars and where you’ll want to go for an after-dinner digestif and, if you’ve got the stamina, a boogie on the dance floor (they also do excellent wood-fired pizzas). Settle in with the local version of a negroni, made with gin from Mudgee’s own Baker Williams distillery, and watch the night unfold.
Lowe Wines is located at:
Rise from a well-earned lie-in and get the day underway with a caffeine hit from Alby & Esther’s. Pressed into a gorgeous late-19th-century stone building, this courtyard cafe is a delightful slip of morning calm. Fuel up with an Esther’s Jaffle, made with smoked ham and local free-range eggs.
Before hitting the wine trail (which, let’s be honest, is the main reason you’re here), swing by Brett Niven Ceramics (call ahead) for a collection of stunning ceramics handmade with clay from the region.
Carry on to Logan Wines, one of the best-known wineries in Mudgee, a 15-minute drive out of town. Now a double-hander with its sister outpost in Orange, Logan’s modern winery overlooks an Insta-perfect valley of rolling hills and vines. Swirl one of their superbly drinkable Apple Tree Flat rosés, the skinsy, new-age Clementine pinot gris or the flagship Ridge of Tears shiraz.
Head to di Lusso Estate for lunch, which will transport you to a place of charming simplicity, with al fresco dining reminiscent of an idyllic Italian trattoria serving a wonderful range of dishes. Sit back with an arneis or fiano and a heaped plate of pear, rocket and parmesan salad or the beef cheeks with a more robust barbera or sangiovese.
It’s worth popping into the organic wineries of both Martins Hill Organic Wines and Broombee Organic Orchard and Vineyard. Both boutique wineries offer wonderfully authentic and personal wine experiences, with the deep nurturing of the vines matched by the hospitality of the vignerons who are often on hand to guide you through their wines.
As twilight descends, Lowe Wines rises. Ignore the fact that your dinner seating doesn’t start until 6pm and instead turn up early to enjoy sundown with a glass of sparkling. Not only will you have views across the bounteous landscape, but you’ll be able to fully appreciate the time and dedication that head winemaker David Lowe has poured into his property, including the permaculture and market gardens that are the engine room of the kitchen.
When it’s time to eat, head over to Lowe’s fine-dining eatery, The Zin House, and sink into your chair, safe in the knowledge that the table is yours for the evening. Lowe’s long-dinner policy makes the seasonal five-course degustation from the farm and surrounding area a supremely stress-free affair. Pairing the food with matched wines will give you the chance to enjoy roast chicken and garden veggies with the lauded Lowe Zinfandel or a tarte tatin with a Craigmoor sticky.
Lochiel House is located at:
Squeeze the last few moments out of your Mudgee days by grabbing coffee and a bacon and egg roll at the Butcher’s Shop Cafe before taking the long way home via the historic village of Hill End.
There’s a bonus to this route, with a number of wineries dotted along the way, including Burnbrae, that does pizzas on Sundays for lunch. Once you’ve found your way to the former gold town of Hill End, an hour down the road, stretch your legs with a self-guided photographic walking tour of the town’s former glory and a slew of colonial buildings to ramble around.
If you’re making your way back home across the mountains, consider taking the Bells Line of Road rather than the Great Western Highway. At Kurrajong, stop in for lunch at Lochiel House for some fine dining in pristine surroundings. It may be a slight detour, but the extra kilometres are more than made up for with stunning bush scenery and occasional vistas.
Wending your way to Mudgee takes around 3.5 hours from Sydney. It’s a straightforward drive that can be broken up by pulling into one of the Blue Mountains’ vantage spots, including Katoomba’s Echo Point or Blackheath’s Govetts Leap.
Once you’ve landed in Mudgee, stay among the gumtrees at luxury glamping spot Budgalong Spicers Creek, or book into wellness retreat, Zensi. For a more central option, Cobb & Co Court Boutique Hotel offers a range of rooms, including a spacious two-bedroom apartment with a private balcony overlooking the township. For more unique stays in Mudgee, click here.
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